Description
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a world-leading standard for textiles made from organic fibers, applying high-level ecological and social criteria and supported by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain (GOTS_Standard, 2014).
The GOTS standard, which focuses only on mandatory criteria, covers processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, marketing, and distribution of all textile products made from at least 70% certified organic natural fibers. Criteria are defined for fibers, chemicals, various stages of the textile production process (including packaging and shipping), used accessories, environmental management, quality assurance, and social responsibility.
For organic fiber production, the main requirements defined in the standard are:
- Certified natural fibers labeled “organic” or “organic – in conversion” according to Regulation (EC) 834/2007, USDA/National Organic Program (NOP), or another standard approved by the IFOAM family of standards (International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements) for relevant plant or animal production.
For processing and manufacturing, the main criteria (GOTS_Standard, 2014) include:
Environmental Criteria
- Clear separation of organic and conventional products throughout the supply chain, properly identified to prevent mixing or contamination.
- All chemicals (oils, dyes, auxiliaries, etc.) must be pre-approved by a GOTS-recognized certification body and meet minimum requirements regarding toxicity and biodegradability.
- Prohibited substances include those containing toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, optical brighteners, enzymes, functional nanoparticles, genetically modified organisms (GMOs) and their enzymes, among others.
- Use of synthetic sizing agents is restricted; oils used in knitting and weaving must be free of heavy metals.
- Printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC (polyvinyl chloride) are prohibited.
- Restrictions on accessories, e.g., no PVC, nickel, or chromium.
- All operators must ensure compliance with applicable environmental legal requirements and maintain a written environmental policy, including set goals and procedures to minimize waste.
- Wet processing units must keep complete records of chemical usage, energy, water consumption, and wastewater treatment, including sludge disposal. Wastewater must be treated in an internal or external wastewater treatment plant.
- Packaging materials must not contain PVC. Paper or cardboard used in retail packaging, including hang tags, must be recycled or certified according to FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) or PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification).
Technical Quality and Human Toxicity Criteria
- All operational procedures must be recorded via a document control and record system to ensure full traceability, with records archived for at least five years.
- Certified companies purchasing organic fibers or intermediate or finished textile products with GOTS certification must receive and maintain a “Transaction Certificate for GOTS-Processed Textiles.” This certificate is issued for the total quantity purchased and is valid for three months.
- Compliance with technical quality parameters, including friction, perspiration, light, wash fastness, and shrinkage.
- Raw materials, intermediate products, finished textiles, and accessories must comply with residue limits for GOTS-labeled products.
Minimum Social Criteria
- All processors and manufacturers must comply with minimum social criteria based on the core standards of the International Labour Organization (ILO), as follows:
- Employment must be freely chosen.
- Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected.
- Working conditions must be safe and hygienic.
- Working hours must not be excessive.
- Inhumane or harsh treatment is prohibited.
Certification Validity
- Annual audits are conducted by independent bodies approved by the IWG (GOTS International Working Group), with additional unannounced audits possible depending on the risk of meeting quality assurance requirements. Certification bodies must be IWG-approved in the areas in which they provide services.
- The GOTS certificate is valid for one year.
- Testing of quality parameters and residues: Frequency, type, and number of samples depend on associated risk. Auditors may collect samples during audits for residue testing based on contamination risk. Additional product samples may be collected from the supply chain at any time without prior notice. Samples are analyzed in duly accredited laboratories.
